Prada Fall 2022 Menswear Review

Masculinity, Reality, Employ…just some of the words to describe Prada’s latest menswear collection. Rory Swann reports on the show for Lippy.

This year's show featured an array of Hollywood A-listers – Kyle MacLachlan, Jeff Goldblum, Thomas Brodie-Sangster – and a few just about B-listers (Louis Partridge, who?) strutting the runway.

“Actors are interpreters of reality,” claim the show notes, which Prada and Simons use to reflect the reality of pragmatic, tailored workwear. For many, work is the only reality. But this collection does not focus on the single mother working double shifts to put food on the dinner table. Rather, the long overcoats and leather briefcases represent the other type of all-encompassing work – the investment banker or such who is so addicted to the work it becomes his only reality.

It seems important that most of the celebrities on the runway are young men. Are they in opposition to Goldblum and McLachlan, a hopeful symbol of what is to come in the corporate world, or do they represent the endless cycle of the American dream: work until you make it, and then work some more? Are they a warning to the new generation of workers, or role models for diversity?

Clothes-wise, the collection was strong, but not as strong as previous Raf/Miuccia menswear shows. The hourglass leather coats and bomber jackets were a highlight, with their glorious shoulder and waist distortions. The combination of strong shoulders and tight waist both reinforced and challenged the idea of the masculine working man.

The jumpsuits were a nice reimagination of the onesies presented in the Fall 2021 collection and were one of the only nods to blue-collar employ. The trousers so long that they ruffled like leg warmers around the ankles were a refreshing take on otherwise traditional tailoring and outerwear. The fur-trimmed coats were, however, a miss. Whatever freshness may have been intended was unfortunately robbed by the fur trimmings plastered across the red carpet in recent months by Gucci.

It would be remiss of me not to mention Prada’s Fall 2012 menswear collection, the other time Miuccia Prada featured celebrities, with Gary Oldman, William Dafoe and Jamie Bell among those modelling. This collection utilised its celebrities as celebrities; they walked a literal red carpet in “a parody of male power”. Ten years later, Prada no longer satirises male power. Rather, there is a grim acceptance of the inexecrable link between work and masculinity. The clues may be there to hint at a rebuttal of this reality. But are they clear enough to push the collection from observation to protest?


Words: Rory Swann